No Honey Here

I smiled at her and wished her “Bom Dia.”
She acknowledged me with a brief smile, then averted her eyes and started adjusting an already perfect display in front of her.
There was no Honey. But that was OK. Every other stall in Miranda’s small square had Honey on it.
She had Cheese.

I took one of the tidbits on offer from a small dish. It was delicious. I also tried one with herbs, and this too, was superb.
She was watching me, a little shyly.
I gestured to the cheeses. “Delicioso.”
She nodded, and in perfect English said. “They are both home-made.”

I was a little surprised. Her accent wasn’t Portuguese, more North-European, but her looks were dark, Mediterranean.
“You speak English,” I said. “but where are you from?”
A blush had started on her neck, and was spreading up into her cheeks. Again she shuffled items on the table in front of her.

“In general, or in particular?” she said.
I laughed, and her blush deepened.
“OK.” I said. “I’d like one of each of these.” I pointed to the cheeses.

She wrapped up the cheeses, and I paid, putting the purchase in my shoulder bag.
She stood, just watching me, saying nothing.
I smiled and said. “Ate logo.”

There was no reply, her eyes still on me as I turned and left.

Carvalheira Archery Centre

My much-vaunted Grand Opening of the Carvalheira Archery Range was today. After great expense, and the splendid support of neighbours, the day itself turned out to be a fairly low-key affair.

Let me re-phrase that, it’s been a total flop.

Fatima, down at Miranda’s Town Hall, had promised me support, but neither her nor any other council officers attended. In fact, I’m beginning to wonder just exactly what she was promising, when I spoke to her last week.
Maybe my study of Colloquial Portuguese should be broadened in
scope to cover local Portuguese expletives.

Two of the neighbours did turn up, but appeared to misunderstand the purpose behind my fixing of balloons onto the target, and insisted on pawing these until each one burst in turn. Also, once I began my shooting display, they decided they had more important things to do, and left quite abruptly.

I blame the rain. Yes, I said rain. It’s taken 23 days, but it’s finally tracked me down after following my trail all the way from North Shields.

There was a warning. Last night outside the cafe in Tabuas, I had to jump onto the table to stop it taking off and making an unscheduled landing somewhere over in Penela, it’s attached umbrella suddenly animated with a gust of wind appearing from nowhere.

Joaquim came out to clear up the mess of broken glass, looked up at the sky and said simply:
“Chuva – amanha.”
He was dead right.

The Range

The Range

The Grand Pavilion

The Grand Pavilion

Dangerous Times For A Fado Cat

Strange goings on,
Beyond the mat.
Dangerous times for
A Fado cat.

Fado Cats Must Stick Together

Fado Cats Must Stick Together

That thing there,
What is that?
It looks like a skewer for
A Fado cat.

And that long bent stick,
With lots of string.
I’d like to play with that,
To hear it ping.

A Fado cat
Loves straw as well.
But six bales of it?
What The Hell?

Better not hide,
Inside the straw.
Skewer flying,
Look! There’s more.

No. Sit listening,
On the mat.
Be good, Be safe,
Just A Fado cat.

Cleanest Teeth In Town?

Cleanest Teeth In Town?

Cleanest Teeth In Town?

Since he missed his last dental appointment, José Falcão’s Hygienist showed determination in carrying out her appointed task,  despite very difficult circumstances.

Update: 16th September 2012

As I’ve always said, in a massively-parallel world, co-incidence is the norm, so why act so surprised?

I would be sticking my neck out (though not, it seems as much as Senhor Falcão can) to suggest that the town council of Miranda Do Corvo, read my blog yesterday and said: “Dash it all chaps, we must replace José’s missing plaque.”

No. So I’ll just report that they caught the offending Dental Hygienist still scrubbing it up with grade 3 dental paste.
They liked the contrast with the original Bronze head so much, they decided to replace it as is.

Plaque is back

Plaque is back

Meet My Neighbours

The couple living across the road are Portuguese, quiet, shy and retiring.

To put that another way, they run like Hell, if I put my size 12’s outside my door. Well, at least they did until a couple of days ago.

Turns out they like Fado music – Mariza in particular, and will sit outside my open door listening, hypnotised, as I am, with the beautiful voice and music.

Even when approached, as I had done to take this photo, they appeared calm, and less skittish.

Fado Cats

Fado Cats

I’m a Fado cat,
I’ve just found out.
I used to run like Hell,
When he was about.

Since he plays those tunes,
I just sit and sway,
Even when he’s there,
I can’t run away.

A Fado cat,
A Fado cat,
To Hell with running,
Just fancy that!

A Fado cat,
I want to stay,
Just sit swaying here,
Don’t go away.

Don’t want no food,
Don’t want no play,
Just listen to Fado,
Here I’ll stay.

A Fado cat,
‘Cos now I know,
There’s no where else,
I’d rather go.

I’m A Fado cat,
A Fado cat,
To Hell with running,
I’m finished with that.

Zay are so stupid!

“Desculpe?” I said.

He looked closer at me “English? Dutch?”

I was tempted to reply “Geordie”, given this is the second occasion I’ve been mistaken for Dutch by an English speaking non-Portuguese.

“English” I replied. “What is the problem?”

“Vot is the problem? They renovate the fountain and now I cannot stand my bottles to be filled vithout them tippling over!”

He demonstrated and repeated his complaint with even more vehemence. ” Zay are so very, very stupid!”

He had already filled ten or so, large bottles, and was busy filling the next ten. That his conspicuous consumption indicated filling a catering need, rather than a domestic one was obvious. His arrogant disdain of the people of the country within which he’d chosen to live was breathtaking. That a simple square of wood was missing from his ‘filling kit’ was clearly beyond his comprehension or imagination.

I felt very much like laughing, but stopped myself just in time, and just savoured the moment. Two reasons mainly. One, I simply enjoyed the moment of seeing someone who had his head so far up his own arse, his brains had turned to shit, and secondly, I didn’t want to continue where Wellington left off, and start Peninsular War II.

Zay are so Stupid!

Zay are so very stupid!

Now you see it..

Hard up in Miranda do Corvo?

Yeah. I can understand that, so I’ve got a couple of ideas to help
you make your dinheiro go just that little bit further.

What you need is a public place, one frequented by passers-by on foot,
say in a public square; and set yourself up with a small bar.

What’s that you say? Not enough capital? No time for planning permission?
Nah! Forget that, I’ve got just the place for you. It has all you want, including clean running water the locals already like to drink.
In fact somewhere like this..

Your new bar site

Your new bar site

Now all you need is a cheap awning, even cheaper beer, a loud sound system, and some extremely questionable hip-hop. Bingo!

Your bar

Your bar

Whaddya fink?

P.S. Don’t forget my finder’s fee.

Two Left Feet

Most apposite, I thought, earlier on in the week, as I looked askance at the deck shoes I’d just pulled onto my bare feet. A few months ago, judging these were such a bargain, I’d bought two pairs, and in the week previous to my leaving the UK, had managed to pack the left shoe from each pair.

Kind of sums up that week, and the ones that preceded it – fraught and extremely tiring, with ‘stuff’ going wrong constantly. This culminated in a blow-out on the M20 on the way to the Dover Ferry, followed by delay caused by a multiple-fatality pile-up on the same road 15 minutes later, and hence missing my ferry, having to wait two hours for the next.

Thunderstorms drove me off the road and into a very basic ‘Aire’, in France, where I spent a few uncomfortable hours in the car between Rouen and Le Mans. Early in the morning I did the 2nd leg of my journey to just outside Salamanca, where my overnight stay was again in the car, as I didn’t like the state of the beds on offer.

It’s now a week since I arrived here, and once again my intentions haven’t been borne out by reality. I had expected to have far more time to relax, instead there were initial problems with getting money, returning missed ‘phone calls, inability to access Estate agents embedded PDF files, and a host of minor details and annoyances I hadn’t even considered.

It’s been costly too, replacing the shredded tyre cost 67 euros, and each Multi-Banco 100 Euro withdrawal I’ve made costs about £2.50 – Each bank involved taking about £1.25 each.

This morning I spent some considerable time in attempting to clear up a trail of dirty clothes, dishes etc., I’ve put off doing for one reason or another. Oh yes! I’ve replaced the fence-wire that was supplied as a clothes line, and managed to wash dirty tablecloths etc., so the place looks half-decent again.

The search for property has paused for the weekend, though there are two properties I liked very much, one of which I have put in an offer, which is still ‘under negotiation’. I’ve decided not to give details of the properties which I have looked at to a public audience, as such details could give advantage to interested parties.

On the subject of others, I have been received by those Portuguese I’ve met with warmth and kindness, and there has also been a warm, but sometimes guarded welcome from the few English people in and around Miranda.

This is a truly beautiful place. I understand completely why it is so popular with English folk, though being quite a long way from ‘the beach’. Each valley around is different, each village unique, with land that varies in suitability for grapes to cabbages, with every variety of crop in between.

I promised photographs, and I will keep my promise, starting with some from Miranda itself, as I feel the town’s website does not do it justice.

Update: 27/08/24
My old blog joebrown.org.uk is no longer available, so the information below is now incorrect. I still have the photos though, and will update this post when these have been uploaded on this site.
I’d intended including a couple on this site, but WordPress jams up when I try to load the media (I suspect bandwidth problems here in Miranda) so the full set can be viewed on my photo gallery.

The photos are roughly in order: Starting with the base of the steep climb up to the church (a penance before you get there), Photos of some of the exterior stations of the cross, the bijou cemetery, where it is obvious that locals like to be close to their friends even in death. Then some shots of the Church courtyard, the tower and church front, and views around, followed by the descent down a set of stairs and alleys back to the Praca.

It’s always best, I think, to start at the beginning..

It’s 19:15 (BST – ‘cos I haven’t checked what local time is yet), and I’m sitting in the dining room of my rental home.

1st impressions? Let’s just call it rustic. Seriously though, the house is clean and suitable for around 4 (smallish) people, with modernised bathroom facilities, and an ancient kitchen, most of which is taken up by a huge grill pot, (v.large BBQ) and an enormous chimney which covers most of the kitchen and spells bad headaches unless I’m very careful.

I’m waiting in to see the owner, and have practised a few encouraging words in Portuguese.

I arrived this morning, fairly early, and Auto-Route took me EXACTLY where I’d asked to be, though not without some hair-raising moments as Microsoft ‘Anna’ guided me through villages with some streets so narrow, a cigarette-paper would have felt oversize, but surprisingly no scrapes!

(Yes, that was fortunate – some would say lucky (!?) – See! I’ve already grown milder in temperament)

And talking of mild, since I arrived at 7:30 this morning, the sun has been shining, and the temperature outside is still ‘scorchio’.

M. do Corvo’s council have thoughtfully provided Wi-Fi Internet access in the town square, so it’s quite pleasant to sit in the small park amongst the shady trees, or at a table from a cafe, to do my emails, which I did this morning.

These included an email from the agents in Tynemouth, with derisory offer on my house, which if I was dealing personally with the putative buyer, would have met with a polite request to go away and stop wasting everyone’s time.

I’ve taken a couple of photos of the square – yes I know the Council has posted ‘official’ ones – you’ll like mine better, trust me. I’ll also take some tomorrow of this house and the ‘garden’.

Property Shop Portugal has several interesting houses for sale, and I’ll be looking at details of these on Monday. For now, I’ve settled at looking at M. do Corvo’s beautiful women, though my 1st choice of today is married – I’m reliably informed, but she has an associate which isn’t…

My source of information will, for the moment remain anonymous! (Apologies for being cryptic, but remember – M. do Corvo’s population is well under 10,000, and it would only take 1 to read this blog)

Other items on my 4-point plan are going well. There is a largish, partly-plowed field/garden/orchard, on slightly sloping land, attached to the rental, so promises rewarding days of target practise with my bow. It goes without saying that I’ve also had my first ‘session’ on the guitar in Portugal.

I also pulled and ate my first ‘honey’ fig off a tree , before washing it down with water from a village fountain – fabulous!

21:53 BST

Slight digression. The owner of the house called to demonstrate the machinations of the gas water heater etc., then I headed off on a circuitous route to the centre of Miranda. I passed through Tabua on the way, and discovered a small botequim, with a gathering of locals, which promises to be an interesting visit for the future.

I’ve met her. That is: either I’ve met the Senhora I was told about this morning; or I’ve met someone equally beautiful! More later.

I’m now back home after a light supper of a sanduiche de fiambre and one bottle of Super Bock. I used Auto-route to navigate home – it only coughed once, but no serious problems.

As a Sat Nav, the combination of Netbook, W7 and Auto-Route has several advantages, but a lot of disadvantages, as I discovered on my journey here. Frequent adjustments to the screen, requiring mouse or touchpad use, are necessary, but impossible whilst travelling.

Boa Noite from joe.